金城武再一次的心動:跟攝影師探索宜蘭秘境



遊走香港,台北與紐約的你我,人與人之間的相處有著若有似無的距離感,但其實這個台北人的後花園,除了好山好水,更有著樸實的人情秘境等你細細去發覺。跟著攝影師的腳步,帶這相機與畫筆, 讓我們用心發現宜蘭的人文風景吧!


合盛太平


#1 合盛太平: 

老一輩的人,總是鼓勵著自家的小孩不是當醫生就是商人,千萬不要搞政治。 自幼聰穎的陳金波醫師於1919年開設太平醫院,許多宜蘭的民眾都給陳醫師看過,因為熱衷地方活動還跟蔣渭水先生共事過。 
而這個過了大半輩子的老醫院也隨著陳金波兒子過世後歇業,直到某日合盛民宿希望重新給老屋一個新方向,才有了合盛太平這個咖啡廳。 

當初陳老奶奶 (陳金波醫師的媳婦)希望能保留老屋的所有回憶,所以原本一樓是診所,二樓是起居室的設計都被保留了下來。 

合盛太平
原本了立牌與診所使用的椅子

合盛太平

二樓的和室與廚房都變身成小型的攝影展,新與舊的融合,既不違和也不突兀。 




不像一般的老屋改建,有時會有華而不實的餐點,合盛太平的咖啡出呼我意料的順口。來這邊可以嚐嚐他們的培茶拿鐵。
 


#2:五峰旗瀑布

夏天或是冬天,五峰旗瀑布總是帶來驚喜。 翠悅的鳥叫聲,可愛的鉛色水鶇 (小名:東東) ,有如被山與露水環抱的大自然。 路程不算長卻可以輕易看到三個延岩而下,姿態卻不同的瀑布。 有些急溯而雄偉,有些輕快蕩然。 


                  waterfall


waterfall


#3: 來星寶做蔥油餅吧

宜蘭的三星蔥會好吃,除了水質好,還有是這太平山吹下來的涼風,早晚溫差大,正好適合蔥的生長環境。微微的涼風,踏入扎實的土壤,別小看這蔥,他們可以實力派的緊抓這土攘,拔蔥還得靠點技巧。

星寶的阿姨很熱心的跟我們講解蔥的生長條件,更不留一手的教我們做蔥油餅。 
”你們蔥要挖大大的兩瓢 要像小山這樣才及格喔! 不能偷工減料“ 

我還是第一次聽到有人說要這麼大方的放料 (笑) 果然是淳樸的宜蘭啊 


三星蔥

三星蔥

看這蔥田上都鋪滿了乾稻草,就是要讓蔥根能保持乾爽,這樣的蔥才會長得健康。 


俗語說「偷挽蔥,嫁好尪」 這次雖沒偷拔蔥,但有做了好吃的蔥油餅 (老師有說做的很漂亮!),是否有能得到上天的恩賜呢? 


#4: 小間書菜支持小農

到了沒多久,某位騎著機車的阿姨笑咪咪的帶了兩袋的香菜跟地瓜進店裡。 店內的小白狗熱情地奔向她,調皮地又舔又跳的歡迎著阿姨。 阿姨的田就離這店大概兩個路口,每天的採收不多,但是剛下完田能立馬送到店裡我還是第一次看到。

這邊還有個有趣的習俗,是你可以帶二手書來換菜,真是大大打動我這愛書人 (又愛吃)的喜好啊! 



小間書菜


這裡的小農的故事都有小小的介紹, 有些是從新加坡嫁來的媳婦,有些是一心一意想要種好糯米的小朋友,或是科技業回鄉的青年農夫,這邊可以看的出,他們的用心。 堅持不用除草劑,不用殺蟲劑等等的友善食材。  

小間書菜

旁邊還有個小小食堂跟木工工作室。 


小間書菜




#5: 龜山島看日出, 日落,追鯨豚

某次跟韓國朋友為了要看日出,大約凌晨三點就出門,一路上黑嘛嘛的,到海邊時一個人都沒有,也沒有燈。此時在草叢聽到了倉促的腳步聲,我瞪大著眼張望,深怕看到不該看的東西,好在是來海邊散步的阿伯啊~ 推薦去鎮海路那邊看日出!


yilan sunset sunrise

yilan sunset sunrise

yilan sunset sunrise


 不管是什麼季節,龜山島都有他不同的風貌 ,淡紫色的彩霞還是金光耀眼的龜山朝日都別有風味。


yilan sunset sunrise

yilan sunset sunrise

好喜歡這種海邊的寧靜感 

yilan sunset sunrise
第一次就看到龜山朝日 (有沒有像烏龜頭頂帶著皇冠呢?)



yilan sunset sunrise

yilan sunset sunrise




很幸運看到海豚!!

#6:宜蘭文學館

宜蘭文學館的前身是舊農舍校長宿舍,一入內撲鼻而來的的檜木香,老宅修建通常要比新建屋要多三倍的心力跟時間,每個窗框印入的景色,都顯示著日式傳統建築的堅持。 









[Michelin 1*] La Degustation



I've always been curious as to why a company that sells would do so much effort in making a guide of restaurants or as Paul Bocuse, French chef of all times, said "The Michelin is the only guide that counts".

The Michelin guide was intended to encourage people to travel and boost the demand for cars and car tires. When internet was not prevalent, the guide had the most up-to-date maps of restaurants, petrol stations and hotels. It allowed people to explore the countryside, go on a picnic, make a detour to a less well known restaurant.

When it comes to selecting restaurants, I reference the "Bandwagon Effect" -- how many people are lining up to wait to dine for this restaurant/and if it is crowded. The food won't be too far off. So the michelin guide is more like a second opinion.

When I visited Prague last year with some friends, we wanted to try traditional Czech cuisine, but that has been renewed and revived.

La Degustation is one of the only three Michelin starred restaurants in Prague.

The chef, Oldřich Sahajdák is all about farm to table cuisine, bringing a modern twist to traditional Czech cuisine.

We weren't particularly hungry, but we didn't want to miss out on the wine pairing they had.





Hokkaido pumpkin, cracklinks, whipped cream paired with palava grand cru 2010 sonberk
Sturgeon caviar, egg, butter milk paired with Soave Montefiorentine 2013 - ca rugate 



Trebon catfish, yeast kohlrabi, paired with ryzlink vlassky 2013 

The soup was absolutely amazing! The chef gave us his secret recipe to this, with leeks, carrot, onion, pineapple and any vegetables you may desire with a pinch of yeast!

Foie gras, pistachio nuts paired with riesling berncasteler doctor spatelese 2015 

You will never guess, but the crumbs were actually shredded foie gras! Melted in my mouth immediately :9



European perch, dill, moravian sparking wine paired with gruner veltliner federspiel 2013

Sumava mushrooms, caraway seeds

Piglet, beetroot, cabbage paired with pignot gris 2012 d weinbach 

Beef tongue, apple, yellow peas paired with cuvee cs,m, cf 2007 

The beef tongue paired really well with the moist yellow peas and the red onions really lightened up the dish.




Bread ice cream, plum jam, beer kocour 

Sweet egg yolk 
You will be amazed how this little thing is so flavorful, and it tasted nothing like the egg yolk we so commmonly have in Asian pastry.



After dinner, we were invited by the chef to visit their kitchen. Our eyes were gleaming as we we were eager to find out how the soup was so stupendously clear yet flavorful.

"The secret to the soup, is cooking the vegetables with a pitch of fermented yeast, and make sure to strain it afterwards",  Sahajdák whispered with a laughter.

"We always buy the freshest ingredients from our farmers, and you won't find food that are out of the season".

"Sometimes it's a lot of pressure, because you have to make sure your dish is perfect every time, but as you see we have an open kitchen because we want our guests to know how we've prepared it to perfection. That also means we can't scream at each other across the table haha."


Such an amazing experience to see action envelop before us. It really marked an good end to our dining experience at Prague!

Degustation Du Chef Menu 3,150czk, Wine Paring 2100 czk

Tainan: A City of Gastronomy (Rice Pudding)

Rice Pudding (粿)

Let’s talk about the most important ingredient, rice. Initially Taiwan, like all other south east Asia countries, cultivate “indica” and “javanica” rice, these are longer, non-sticky type of rice that are often found in India, Philippines, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Africa etc.

However, during the Japanese colonization, a time where war was frequent, the main goal of Taiwan was to become an agricultural hub to support mainland Japan. They wanted to grow “japonica” rice instead, also dubbed as “short rice”.

Therefore, they sent two agricultural experts Iso Eikichi and Suenaga Megumu to:
1)    Adapt the japonica rice to grow in Taiwan’s climate
2)    Cross pollinate indica and japonica rice

For the rice puddings, it is important to use aged “indica” rice (been left for at least a year to dry up). Then it must be soaked and churned. The amount of water used to produce a certain consistency is crucial in making the rice potage evenly soft across all areas.

Tainan rice pudding (Wa guan)
鎮傳四神湯  

Braised pork, dried prawns and dried radishes are placed at the base of the bowl, with the potage poured over it to be steamed.

This is then drizzled with some sesame sauce and garlic or chili sauce. Decadent when it is eaten with Four herb soup (四神湯). 




Tainan: A City of Gastronomy (Beef Soup)

Tainan is not a city of Michelin stars, but it is by definition, a city that is worth a special visit.

I’ve been to too many famous cafes that leverage on its previous glories (a writer, a politician, an artist who frequents there), and you get served with rolled-eye waiters and lifeless food.

“Sorry but we have a minimum order.”

“Meme, I don’t have all day for you.”

In Tainan, you will only experience a rustic sincerity, honesty and a love for fresh ingredients.
Paul Bocuse championed farm to table concept? Please, Tainan has been doing that at least for four hundred years!

If you come to Tainan, then here are some of the dishes that you must try. 


Beef Soup  

When we arrived this late afternoon, the storeowner, a chubby chef greeted us with a big smile under his black framed glasses. He could have been mistaken as a student I would say. “We have the freshest beef today, I’d like to give you guys a big bowl!” He said. 

“Thank you for your kindness! I am afraid this is our 8th street food store we’ve been to, and we couldn’t possibly eat more”.

Most Tainan locals drink beef soup for breakfast, something warm to awaken the tummy for a full day work.


Tainan beef soup
盛 牛肉湯 

The interesting thing is that since Taiwan was largely an agricultural island, farmers saw cattle as their partner and family and hence do not eat them. It was during the Meiji Restoration, when the Japanese started selling high-end beef in West market(西市場) in 1920-30s, did the Taiwanese start to consider beef as an option. 

Every morning the butchery will get a taxi to deliver the freshest beef to individual stores, so the meat is often always slaughtered within 24 hours, if not just in a few hours. Each store has their own soup recipe that varies from boiling T-bones, old chicken, carrots, pineapple, bitter melon to yam leaves for at least 8 hours. Some stores would even add soya bean remains to the soup to absorb the oil and impurities. This reminds me of how , Oldřich Sahajdák a 2 star Michelin chef told me how they cook their soup. They would add vegetables as well as yeast to prepare perfectly clear broth.   


Tainan beef soup

The beef chuck would be thinly sliced, about 20-30mm thick like sashimi, and boiling hot soup will be poured over it. It is usually medium rare when served. 

Next: Rice Pudding





愜意的台北慢遊:五間咖啡控必去Cafe


下雨天的午後,更適合離開自己的舒適圈,發覺巷弄間的驚喜。有時候也許不能說走就走的去旅行,卻可以帶上一本好書,隨心所欲的走入巷弄中,尋找另一種的美好。 


1. Stoppage Time  
我最喜歡的店之一 ,一直默默希望他不要變得這麼有名 (以前去的時候都沒人 ,讓我獨佔這個美好的空間!笑)除了有好喝的咖啡之外,最愛的是他們的檸檬塔! 好喝的咖啡,還是要有優等的甜點陪襯啊~ 
喜歡電影的人,他們的牆上都會投放一些藝文片,很適合一個人工作的時候,一邊欣賞電影。 



2. Rufous Coffee 
不去酒吧就來Rufous 吧! 有各式各樣的冰滴咖啡與拿鐵,推薦他們的Irish Coffee (含酒精),非常適合寒冷的冬天,整個身體都會暖呼呼的! 



3. Hoto Cafe 
中山區巷弄內的慵懶小店,很適合跟姐妹一起談心的好地方,除了咖啡也可以試試他們的奶茶,有很細膩的奶香味 。 空間大約只有6人座、請務必先訂位以免撲了空。旁邊還有間小小的乾燥花店可以好好探索一下。



4. KIOSK 
   有大片採光窗的咖啡店,座位很舒適但建議平日來比較不會太吵。 


5. ANEMOS CAFE 旬印 
常常會辦一些藝文與攝影講座的咖啡廳 「旬印」代表的意義是時間的駐記;老闆因為愛旅遊,所以希望呈現一個能讓人放下腳步的駐點。以義式咖啡為主,不喝咖啡的推薦他們的接骨木花氣泡飲。